processes, studies, reviews, musings & other curiosa.

Soup’s On: Examining Campbell’s brand mmm-mmm-makeover

September 2012 is shaping up as a banner month for the 140-year-old New Jersey brand whose iconic red and white cans populate virtually every pantry from sea to shining sea. First, they introduced the special-edition packaging commemorating the 50th anniversary of Andy Warhol’s 32 Campbell’s Soup Cans. Campbell’s is introducing Go! Soup and courting the hipster set: that nebulous term for a young, city-faring, world-wise demographic that is more socially-conscious than the average bear.

Make that trying really, really hard to win over the palates and gullets of hipsters. Campbell’s has ditched the red and white can in favor of white plastic pouches. On these pouches there are black and white photos of stylish, young people that could have been snapped on Instagram. There’s hand-drawn typography that’s more Oatmeal than soup, and there’s the kind of ironically self-aware verbiage that populates Facebook walls from Silver Lake to Williamsburg. There’s a mysterious feature called a ‘cool touch’. Is this a thumbprint-shaped heat indicator to measure microwave oven efficiency, or is it just there for looks? All in all, it looks like the kind of patronizing package design that would be lampooned before it was consumed.

Maybe this is all too harsh. I haven’t even tried Go! Soup. Maybe just because I’m over 30, or because I’ve lived for four years in a gentrifying enclave of Los Angeles, or maybe because I’m the kind of guy who makes his own chicken stock, I think that Campbell’s is, in their own words, waaay overreaching. By putting a phrase like “Holla! You gotta check out this [soup flavor]” over the name of the product, the old focus group favorite makes an appearance: the call to action, requested by people who don’t understand the target market demographic and/or have reservations about the product they’re trying to sell them. If you feel the need to first tell people to pay attention to your communication, you need to do it better.

Having said all that, the Go! Soup menu sounds pretty good. Creamy smoked gouda with red pepper, creamy chipotle with roasted corn, chicken & quinoa with poblano chilies, golden lentil with Madras curry, and spicy chorizo—global flavors and ingredients are a long way from the Chicken & Stars and Vegetable Beef of my upbringing. But the menu is only part of the equation why pre-packaged, ready to eat soups are struggling to regain their relevance in the marketplace: a heightened awareness of additives and preservatives have reshaped how American consumers shop and eat. Canned soup’s high-sodium reputation neither tastes good, nor is good for you. Contemporary consumers like those Campbell’s is pursuing simply expect more: fresh, seasonal ingredients and healthy offerings that taste good.

Will the pouch package allow for more freshness and fewer preservatives, enabling Campbell’s to beat canned soup’s mushy, bland, and salty rap? If so, Campbell’s could be poised to reclaim the mantle of “mmm-mmm good.”

Efficient Echo Park Kitchen: My Apartment Therapy Cool Small Kitchens 2012 entry

kitchen 1
kitchen 2
kitchen 3
kitchen 4
kitchen 5

Location: Los Angeles, CA
Square Feet: 72
Division: Rent

What makes your small kitchen so cool?
It’s got all my favorite things and is the workshop where I tinker. I am tall enough to reach everything. And there’s enough room for two.

Describe a challenge you’ve overcome or a smart resource you’ve found for your kitchen.
I’m inspired by the no-nonsense aesthetic of restaurant kitchens—the kind that are the size of a cockpit where everything is within arm’s reach. My resources come from everywhere, but most of the fittings are IKEA or Target or restaurant suppliers.

The challenge in renting means not being able to gut it and start over. I love to cook and have acquired a lot of gear and a lot of books. I’ve had to make use of every cubic inch. I modified an IKEA Grundtal pot rack by removing the center rods, taking Rationell pot lid holders and putting them against the wall to create dividers, enabling me to store my pots and pans upright, like books—and not compromise my spice rack. I modified an IKEA shelving unit by fitting a butcher block top to create a prep area, storing appliances underneath and enabling two people to use the space.

Besides size, lighting has been a concern. I replaced the fixture and positioned clamp spots up at the ceiling for additional indirect lighting.

What’s your favorite meal to cook here?
Whatever is in season at the Hollywood Farmer’s Market. I love comfort foods, cheap cuts of meat cooked low and slow for hours—Braised short ribs come to mind. I’ve been making sourdough breads from wild yeast starters for a while now, and still trying to get the perfect Salted Caramel ice cream out of my KitchenAid ice cream maker attachment.

The Process

In the Summer of  2008, I moved from a two bedroom apartment in Los Angeles’ Koreatown neighborhood to a cozy studio a few miles northeast to a hilltop in Echo Park.

As an avid home cook, the only thing I really liked about my Koreatown digs was the kitchen. It was a galley with ample cabinet space, a two-stool eating bar with an adjacent dinette, open to the living room, and a sight line to the television. But with a job promotion and schedule change, and a roommate who wanted out, I chose not to renew my lease, and ended up finding a tiny studio apartment in a neighborhood closer to work and exactly where I wanted to be.

The new kitchen is closed off from the main living area, and 8’ x 9’, five cabinets, and about 20 square feet of countertop. In order to unpack the boxes I would bring over each night as soon as I had the keys, I had to install places to put the things I was unpacking. What’s more, I would eventually have more than the four cooking vessels I unpacked, would need space for a future stand mixer and other tools. I was in the KCRW Angel Cookbook Club, so  I could expect five new books per year, and a host of Food & Wine, Cook’s Illustrated, and Bon Appétit magazines I received from the frequent purchases I was making at Sur La Table.

Space Race

I embraced the lack of cabinetry as an opportunity to create a utilitarian workspace. Metro shelving, ubiquitous in restaurant kitchens and warehouses was my ideal pick, but it was not only cost-prohibitive, the sizes were too big for the spaces I needed to fill. But the post-and-rack, polished chrome shelving could be had for cheaper and in smaller sizes. At Target, I found a shelving unit, a Metro knockoff with a butcher block top that fit perfectly by the range. I used IKEA Omar, another Metro knockoff, for both sides of the refrigerator wall—high shelving to serve as  supply/pantry storage in the corner nearest the door, and wide, low, two-tier storage for beneath the window for appliances. I then fit this shelf with a butcher block top I cut to fit the space between the corner and the refrigerator, and secured it with an adjustable table leg, using the space beneath for a trash bin. This prep table did the unthinkable—turned 72 square feet into a space where two people could work.

Over the top of the window and over the doorway leading to the main area, I installed eight linear feet of wall-mounted shelving. This gave me space for my growing cookbook collection. Underneath I fit it with glass racks for stemware.

I installed stainless rod and bracket shelving to store pots, pans, and knives. When I first moved in, I had six pots and pans that hung on hooks from one shelf. As I bought more, I had to reconfigure, as the few hanging pots and pans monopolized the space as well as covered the spice rack. I added a second shelf beneath the first, where I kept my pots. For the pans, I removed the four center rods from the Grundtal shelf, and positioned pot lid racks against the wall. The expandable racks have stainless steel pegs that serve as dividers, enabling the pans to sit upright in the rack, like books on a shelf.

White plywood bins line the tops of the cabinets, as well as keep smaller items on lower shelves like towels and appliance accessories. White plastic, lidded bins keep extra glassware and serving pieces from collecting dust.

Dry goods Tetris

Because cabinet space was at a premium, maximizing the storage space was vital. For pantry staple bulk ingredients like flour and sugar, I used Cambro 4 quart Camsquares from a restaurant supplier. For those kept in smaller quantities, like rices, grains, and popcorn, I used Camwear quart rounds, and also reserved a few extra for different ingredients as well as leftover storage. This was for a few reasons—first, cost. They’re virtually indestructible and average out to a few dollars per container. They are also uniform in appearance: when I look in my cabinets, I see the ingredients and not the vessels they are in. Second, they stack as well as occupy the same amount of space. And finally, every restaurant supplier has Cambro products, meaning that whenever I need or want more, they are easy to find.

Candle Power

There was one light fixture with a dim 40 watt bulb, which I replaced with a pendant. Even with a brighter compact fluorescent bulb, I still wanted it brighter. I added four clamp spotlights, pointing them up at the ceiling for even, indirect light.

Quick Drawers

As these cabinets were presumably handmade by the carpenter who built the rest of the unit and are probably at least 50 years old, the drawers are small and the size is, shall we say, unconventional. At The Container Store, I found a great (and inexpensive) modular storage system of linkable plastic trays by Rubbermaid.

Pieces of Flair

My unit faces the street and is about 15’ from the curb, so privacy is essential. I also wanted a little bit of color and style to break up an otherwise cold, utilitarian space. I purchased IKEA Enje roller blinds, but the were sheer, meaning they were virtually transparent at night. Also, the color choices available that would work in my space were either white or charcoal. What I ended up doing was replacing the sheer fabric with a bold IKEA print (Gisela), as the large, offset orange and black rounds reminded me of my two most important cooking vessels: a cast iron skillet and an enameled cast iron French Oven.

Without a dry erase board, produce and perishable ingredients can be quickly forgotten. But dry erase boards are boring to look at. However, glass works as a dry erase surface. I used a framed Hatch Show Print original for a dry erase board with style.

Finally, I wanted a kitschy, food-themed something in my kitchen. At Amoeba, I found a vintage poster from Green Jellö’s Cereal Killer album, which most people who came of age in the early 1990s remember from their heavy metal rendition of “Three Little Pigs” and the accompanying music video.

Far from the tree: Apple’s Genius Campaign

Apple’s new Genius campaign for the 2012 Summer Olympics debuted last night, the first of the post-Jobs era. Through an age-old, client-driven tactic that writers refer to as “Johnny Exposition,” we see what appears to be a normal, everyday conversation between a brand ambassador and someone who represents the target demographic, and learn about the benefits of owning and using a Mac. While the intent is to show all of the cool things you can do with a Mac, the product itself is given precious little (if any) facetime—we don’t see an iMovie being made, we only see a conversation between two people on how to make one. In reality, the product is a ‘genius,’ an overenthusiastic geek dressed as an Apple employee who shows up and solves problems—think Winston Wolf for the Glee set:

Not only is the new campaign insufferable to watch, it’s confusingly off brand. For the past three and a half decades, Apple has debunked the perception that computers are difficult to use and understand by designing beautiful, intuitive products—from MacOS’ GUI to the iPod, iPhone, iPad. They made computing personal and fun for people who weren’t tech wizards. The Genius campaign is a departure, selling Apple as a product line requiring the constant attention and tutelage of a professional to use, through a shameless plug for their retail outlets and their centerpiece feature, the Genius Bar.

Historically, Apple’s advertising has been as iconic as its products in ways that inspired people to use a Mac—1984 and Think Different as the most outstanding examples. The Switch campaign built upon Think Different, showing the Mac in action, in the hands of contemporary everyday people thinking differently.

In some ways, Genius is another permutation of the Get a Mac campaign that cleverly illustrated the ease and use of Apple products, although it also further reinforced an unfortunate and widely-held perception that Mac is a cult product for elitists, and PCs are for uptight nerds. Yet in spite of this, there are two fundamental differences between Genius and Get a Mac. First, it showed technical processes in a simple and memorable way. Second, Justin Long and John Hodgman were entertaining:

Growing brands and feeding the masses: Kogi & Chego

Food trucks have been a part of Los Angeles’ urban culture for decades. The mobile kitchen was born when caterers bought old delivery trucks and fit them with bare-bones kitchen implements, enabling them to serve far-flung movie shooting locations by day, and late-night food in neighborhoods underserved by brick-and-mortar restaurants. As can be imagined, fare served from these trucks was simple, and most commonly tacos and burritos, the family recipes of the truck’s owners. Every Los Angeles neighborhood has at least one taco truck, and every Angeleno has a favorite. But in the late 2000s, entrepreneurs and trained chefs began to look at food trucks as a way to serve more inventive street fare to the public.

Getting Rolling

My relationship with Kogi began in 2009, with a winning submission to their sponsored tee shirt contest. Starting with a grainy iPhone photo I snapped while waiting in line for Kogi’s famous Korean short rib tacos at a stop in Los Angeles’ Silver Lake neighborhood. I reduced and simplified the image, boiling it down to its most basic shapes and impulses. The end result embodies the brand’s hip, urban, life-of-the-party essence. In the years that followed, this shirt design became the staff uniform. When the throngs of customers began asking for it, Kogi began selling it from the truck to its customers. Later that year, Bon Appétit magazine took notice, naming Choi Best New Chef of 2009.

In the years that followed, Kogi’s fleet has grown to include four trucks operating throughout Southern California, and had made trips to Chicago and New York City. In 2010, the year that Food & Wine awarded Choi with their Best New Chef award (the first time the award was ever given to a food truck), his next chapter Chego opened as a storefront in a West Los Angeles strip mall. A Korean compliment to the chef that loosely translates to ‘that’s the most delicious thing I’ve ever eaten,’ Chego does a brisk take-out lunch and dine-in dinner business, dealing in what Choi describes as ‘chillax peasant food from the soul.’

All Together Now

Choi’s staff has since outgrown the art I created for them in 2009, and they asked for a co-branded shirt for their staff of 80 strong to wear aboard Kogi’s trucks and in Chego’s kitchen.

Fusing two trademarked brands presents a unique set of challenges.Of course the rolling restaurant Kogi and quick-casual Chego are different places. Kogi’s dishes are portable and predominantly served in tortillas, the heartbeat of Chego is in their rice bowls. Yet both restaurants have strong nightlife roots and a gritty, urban sensibility. Both menus both from the imagination and soul of Roy Choi, with many of the same ingredients and flavor profiles, as well as prepared and consumed by many of the same faces—the essence of a Mr. Miyagi paradox of different, but same. My concept was to show a jar of sambal and bottle of sriracha featuring the Kogi and Chego brands in the midst of a cornucopia including cilantro, lime, basil, corn, and cabbage. But this mashup of mise en place simply looked like a line cook’s workspace. It lacked both brands’ urgency and impetus, and worse still looked like an ad for a line of branded spicy condiments.

The solution was a synergy of both brands, and culminated in a fresh and spicy lot party: the Kogi truck pulled up outside Chego. The process used to create this illustration was similar to the Kogi original, filtering and reducing low-resolution photos, a composite of Chego’s storefront and a Kogi truck. As of June 23, this shirt is in production and will soon be for sale on Kogi trucks as well as at Chego.